Mushroom Ragout

1. Clean the mushrooms thoroughly. Keep each variety separate. The dirty stem end should be trimmed with a small sharp knife and the pine needles should be gently brushed away with a semi-stiff brush.

2. Wash the mushrooms thoroughly.  Fill a large bowl with cold water. Quickly dip and swish the mushrooms in the water two handfuls at a time. Lift the mushrooms from the water and placed in a colander. Repeat the process until there is no dirt at the bottom of the bowl. Drain the mushrooms in a colander. Never allow the mushrooms to soak. They are like sponges and will quickly become sodden if allowed to sit in water for any amount of time. Slice the larger mushrooms into bite sized pieces and cut the smaller mushrooms in half or, if they are very small, leave them whole.

3. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat; add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and then one type of mushroom. Each variety must be cooked separately as they cook at different speeds. Sauté the mushrooms until they are golden, and their juices are almost dry, about 5 to 7 minutes. Stir the shallots, garlic and thyme into the mushrooms (be sure to reserve equal amounts for the rest of the mushrooms) and season the mixture with salt and pepper to taste.

4. After all of the mushrooms have been sautéed, mix them together and reserve them in a warm place until ready to be used or, if you prepare them in advance, cover and store them in the refrigerator.