Untraditional Tradition
The classic New York-style egg roll — massive, thick-skinned, and bursting with crispiness from the fryer — paired with invigorating Asian hot mustard, is a New York culinary tradition that first took flight in the 1930’s and is cherished by New Yorkers to this day. Unlike traditional delicate, thin-skinned spring rolls, a true New York-style egg roll is an untraditional American heavyweight meant to satisfy a craving that can’t be satisfied by anything else.
The thick bubbly wheat wrapper densely packed with a savory, seasoned mix of shredded cabbage, celery, carrots, and generous chunks of roast pork (char sui) and shrimp, begs to be eaten with one hand. Paired with sinus-clearing Asian hot mustard, egg rolls have been a culinary rite of passage for decades for those who grew up in New York. Of course because of its deliciousness, the religion of the egg roll spread like wildfire across the US allowing others to experience the same rite.
The heat of the mustard is key to counter-balance the heft of the filling. Made simply from mustard powder and water, Asian hot mustard delivers an immediate, sharp, horseradish-like kick that hits right behind the nose and provokes an immediate flood of tears.
Egg rolls are an unlikely pairing for wine. Whenever I think of an “unlikely” pairing my mind immediately turns to Abraxas. Abraxas is the hero wine for all of my unlikely pairings – artichokes, asparagus, spicy heat and smoked meat.
An egg roll? Bring it on!!! Abraxas, an untraditional, traditional wine sings loudly with these hefty packets of goodness. A Chinese-American fever dream that’s pretty darn near perfect.
Until the next wine…
Maria
