Robert Sinskey Vineyards

The Art of The Blend...
The Tool of the Terroirist!

Science and technology ushered in an era of dramatic improvements in the consistency of wine during the ‘90s and ‘00s. Buying a bottle of wine went from being a crap shoot, where you were more likely to purchase one with flaws, to a level where most commercially available wines were sound. But once you can fix any flaw, where do you stop? How do you define terroir when sometimes terroir is defined by the very aspects, the “flaws,” of a region that make it unique?

What suffered was character or, at least, the old-fashioned idea that wine should have a sense of place. As science-based winemaking became better at correcting flaws, a sameness fell over the wine world. Wines from Bordeaux, Spain, Australia and, even, Italy started tasting like Napa, while the sub-regions of Napa began to lose their character and taste similar - especially with Bordeaux varieties. The infatuation with single varietal wines made this trend even worse. Where some vintages and places were less than ideal for that variety, winemakers were forced to engage in remedial winemaking to make a marketable beverage.

How do we fix where we went wrong? One answer is to look to tradition, instead of science, as a guide. Many wine regions have historically used more than one variety of grape to define the wines of the region. Long before it became an exact science, the issue of ripeness was the main definition of vintage. But not every variety grown in every place achieved optimal ripeness. Different grapes have different ripening cycles. The Right Bank of Bordeaux hedged their bets by concentrating on three varieties - Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon - to create a blend according to vintage. For the most part, Merlot ripens earlier than the other varieties with softer tannins, Cabernet Franc comes next to provide a gregariousness whereas the Cabernet Sauvignon does not always fully ripen and is used to provide backbone with firm tannin.

Imagine that there is such a thing as the Right Bank of Napa. If there were, it would likely be where Marcien is grown in the Northern Carneros. The three grapes allow a vigneron to pick and blend according to vintage and put away the chemistry set. Each variety contributes a complimentary element to the other varieties. The lessons of tradition amplify the character of the region without terroir-obliterating, heavy-handed laboratory techniques for a wine that is naturally pure, balanced and elegant.

Eggs

We often had breakfast for dinner when I was growing up. It was most likely to occur on a Sunday night and usually involved eggs, cheese and other bits of savory things. I suspect it fell on Sunday because we had run out of weekly groceries by then and had to stretch whatever scraps were left by adding eggs… or perhaps it was simply a break from the ordinary. No matter the reason, I loved eggs for dinner whether they took the form of an omelet, frittata, simply scrambled with a shower of salt and black pepper. Breakfast for dinner made me happy and sated.

When I went to France as an exchange student, I learned about omelets for lunch happily enjoyed with a glass of white or red wine. Perfectly pale, tight with an ooze of soft cheese and herbs from the pointed ends, omelets for lunch were decadent and, in my young mind, raised the “eggs as a meal other than breakfast” bar to new heights. I actually thought it had reached the top and could not get any better.

Then, I foraged mushrooms. Done furtively in the early morning, it was a magical adventure filled with hanks of soft rotting leaves, cool mists, dirt and the wonder of discovery. As I walked steadily scanning the forest floor, mushrooms would suddenly appear and take my breath away. I’d run towards them, fearful that someone else would claim them, the curved blade of my mushroom knife cocked and ready, slashing at the dirt. My basket filled slowly with each new discovery.

Hunger always pinched my stomach when I returned home. I’d lay the mushrooms out in a single layer on the long table for inspection and wait for the all clear from the “expert” that they were safe and edible, then the fun began. Piles were cleaned and tossed in a large iron skillet with olive oil or butter. The scent of earth and sweet nuttiness filled the air. Eggs were added and cooked loosely. They acted as a blank canvas, beautifully carrying the deep flavor of the mushrooms. Seasoned with salt and pepper, the omelets were simple, sustaining and delicious. A reward for our keen eyes and methodic work. The bar had reached a new height.

I still occasionally have omelets for dinner. When I have good foraging fortune, I stuff them with fresh wild mushrooms and a bit of cheese. When I’m really lucky, I might add a shaving or two of fresh truffles. An omelet and a glass of wine for me is a simple pleasure. With mushrooms in the mix I usually gravitate toward a full-bodied and luscious red like Marcien. There is something about Marcien that hints of earth and forest floor and ties it inextricably to mushrooms.

Until the Next Wine....
Maria

EAT: Wild Mushroom and Parmesan Omelet

In RSV’s three plus decades as winegrowers, the 2012 vintage was closest to ideal as is naturally possible. Optimal weather patterns at flowering led to a healthy set and the long, cool growing season let the fruit ripen evenly. Everything in the vineyards was gorgeous in 2012… a situation that almost never occurs.

The select blocks of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in RSV’s organic, cool-climate Carneros vineyards, have more in common with the Right-Bank of the Old World than the Left-Bank of the New World — and for good reason. RSV’s Vandal Vineyard is in many ways like the Right Bank of Napa with a heat summation similar to Saint-Émilion, where Cabernet Franc and Merlot thrive with just the right amount of naturally-occurring, mouth-watering acidity. Combine those two varieties with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, to lend the wine backbone, for a perfect balance of supple fruit and age-worthy structure in a wine that promises to be glorious for decades to come.