Change is Certain

“What if Carneros becomes too warm for Pinot Noir?” Inevitably, someone poses an iteration of this question at every seminar, wine tasting or dinner I attend, illustrating the problem with the sensational monicker “Global Warming.” Most assume the world will progressively warm, equally, in all areas at the same time. It won’t. The more accurate term is “Climate Change.”

As average temperatures change, so do weather patterns. A hotter interior California could exert a more powerful draw on the marine layer, creating episodic cooling of coastal appellations like Carneros. Some areas will warm, some will cool, some will become wetter while others will become drier. One thing that seems apparent with climate change, both locally and globally, is an increased incidence of weather anomalies. In Napa, we are in our second year of drought. The year prior was a flood year. This year, we have seen severe spring frost episodes, followed by wilting heat waves, then back to cooler than average temperatures. The wild swings between extremes were the challenge for 2008.

RSV’s organic farming model anticipates the demands a more erratic local climate imposes on grapevines. Organic and Biodynamic methods moderate the impact of inclement weather on several fronts. Organic matter in the soil creates better soil structure (tilth) and thus a better environment for soil fauna. These microbes metabolize nutrients and release them in more usable and complete forms than those found in synthetic fertilizers. The vines can then access these nutrients as they require, naturally regulating vigor. An excessively vigorous vine has trouble handling heat spikes as it expends too much energy supporting water hungry green growth instead of concentrating on fruit development. Also, a soil with balanced organic matter improves its ability to hold plant-available water and oxygen. Besides the direct benefits, organic farming helps sequester carbon that would otherwise contribute to the CO2 load in the atmosphere.

Progressive agriculture looks at the farm holistically, creating a healthy, balanced, diverse, and integrated system that can more successfully endure the challenges of climate change.

Harvest began in 2008 during a wave of triple digit temperatures. Jeff Virnig, who is bringing in his twenty-first harvest at RSV, says that winegrowing is like playing chess. You come to the table with a strategy, then nature makes its moves that require dynamic thinking to counter. This year’s heat wave forced a change in strategy. Instead of harvesting during the peak heat of the day, picking commenced at 2 a.m. to take advantage of nighttime’s cooler temperatures. Not good for the crew’s beauty sleep, but it was the right move for grape quality.

Change is constant – It is irrelevant whether you believe the documented increase of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere is a natural phenomena or caused by human activity. The CO2 load is currently at a tipping point. What humans do on this planet can either contribute to, or reduce, that load. Whatever your politics may be, the reality is that change is upon us. It is our obligation as thinking human beings to take responsibility and act before change exceeds our ability to adapt. If we don’t, the inability to grow quality grapes in Napa will be the least of our problems. It is a small comfort to know that we are taking baby steps to reduce our footprint while making better wine at the same time.

Tasting Notes

Capa gleams, gemlike, with translucent ruby color. Aromas of dried rose petals, rhubarb and dark red fruits rise from the glass. Red cherries burst on the palate, while darker, richer fruit and spice lurk behind. Fig, cranberry, nutmeg, citrus zest, and tea saunter slowly by on a texture woven dense by ample ripe tannins.

Winegrowing Notes

The Capa Vineyard (named after Rob’s long departed Border Collie, who was in turn named after photojournalist Robert Capa) occupies a south facing hillside. The vines face the sun, allowing the heirloom selections to fully ripen for a rich wine with firm tannins that will age gloriously.

One of the wettest winters in memory was followed by a cool spring in 2005. The cool weather and late rain made for shaky nerves during flowering and fruit set but things worked out fine and yields were perfectly balanced. Ample water in the soil made for a healthy vine with a larger than normal canopy. Fortunately, the cool weather prevailed for most of the growing season, allowing for extended hang time and grapes with moderate sugar levels and great acid balance. Engustment, or the development of the specific flavors that make for varietal character, occurs late in the game, independent of sugar ripeness. 2005 provided the long hang time necessary for this development and made for ripe, well-developed tannins to boot! This wine shows the balance, structure and substance that will reward cellaring. The best days are ahead.

I love the sweet, delicate nature of the flageolet bean. This little green legume retains its charm whether cooked from fresh or dried and is the perfect bean for soups and stews as it maintains its integrity of shape, staying perky and tender rather than becoming mushy and insipid. You would have to drastically overcook it to make it thus.

Behold this wonderful bean! Among my favorites are flageolets grown on the Phipps Ranch about 2 hours south of Napa near Pescadero. The Phipps family is famous for their preservation of heirloom bean varieties. The culinary world is certainly much richer for their effort.

Cassoulet is perfect for cool weather and ideal with a good glass of Pinot Noir. The brightness of the wine cuts through the richness of the duck and plays well with the spice in the sausage. Although this dish is a classic bean stew originating from the southwest of France, it is served in bistros throughout the country. Each region has its own version. Some add smoked ham hock and use white coco beans while others opt for a chunk of pork belly with the same flageolet beans used in this incarnation. I like to use garlic sausages, but any sweet pork sausage will make a good substitution. If you’d like to lighten up the dish, sear and braise fresh duck legs in stock for 1 1/2 hours until the meat almost falls off the bone and use in place of the duck leg confit.

Until the next wine…
Maria