Robert Sinskey Vineyards

Mr. Petrini had just given an impassioned speech arguing that the French government’s recent folly greenlighting the use of oak chips in wine will help create a sea of sameness in a land known for its diversity and individuality.
The French have been losing market share to the New World, particularly the world “down under” where technology in wine rules supreme and the use of oak chips in inexpensive wine is commonplace. Unfortunately, the French have not been reading the news of the Australian wine glut. Aussies planted too much of a good thing- Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay- handled it all in a similar fashion, and have created a commodity that trades more on price point than wine quality. By getting into this game late, the French run the risk of becoming a “me too” wine region where diversity is considered a negative and homogeneity is considered an asset.
The danger of this strategy is the loss of less marketable wine varieties (Jacquère, Chasselas, Altesse, Roussanne, Molette, Gringet, Malvoisie, Mondeuse Blanche, Gamay, Mondeuse, Persan, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau, Melon à queue rouge, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvedre, Muscadelle, etc.) and their genetic stock. The tragedy for consumers will be a lack of diversity, the inability to predict regional wine style and diminished compatibility with food. Instead of chasing the market, the French have the opportunity to define one through education and to use purity and diversity as a point of distinction. If everyone does their part by drinking a bottle of something they have never tried before, then perhaps we can reverse this trend toward sameness.
Mr. Petrini waited for an answer. The winemaker stuttered before answering with Clintonian precision “Not here, we don’t!” Those in the know understood what he meant. In that particular facility, barrels were used; however, the parent company used wood chips for their more moderately priced wines.
Making slow wine in a fast world is difficult. In some ways we suffer from too much information. Global marketing and instant feedback skews our approach to making wine. All too often, the demands of the marketplace determine wine style as opposed to the growing region. It is like fitting a square peg in a round hole. It can be done, but you have to cheat a little… and when the cheating is rewarded in increased sales and profitability, the seduction is complete and an international commodity is born.
Slow wine is pure. It is a wine that is grown organically, perhaps even biodynamically, and not mussed with in the cellar. It is true to region and true to varietal character. You don’t always know it when you buy it, but you know it when you taste it. It has a naturally vibrant texture. It feels like it belongs in your mouth… and it tastes like the grapes from which it was made.